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(THLRD EDITION.) 



HAND WORK VERSUS MACHINERY, 



THEIR MERITS AND DEFECTS EXPLAINED AND COM- 
PARED. HISTORY OF WATCH MAKING BY 
BOTH SYSTEMS. 



BY- 



\ 




Published by the Author at 36 Maiden Lane, where this book can be obtained 

singly or by the quantity. 



gMV f0*fc: 



A. N. WH1TEHORNE, BOOK JOB AND NEWSPAPER PRINTER, 
35 ANN STREET. 

1877 



§£€>«••« 



■-*—&%$ 



ESTABLISHED 11V 1839. 

HENRY E, DROZ. 
IMPOETEK OF WATCHES. 

Manufacturer of WATCH CASES AND SOLID GOLD RINGS. 

Agent for the Edouard Perregaux (Locle) Watch, in Key and Stem Winders. 
Chronographs, Quarter. Independent Seconds, etc. This watch has obtained 
the first medal at Neuchatel and Geneva Observatories, for superior ac- 
curacy in running. 

Jobber in all Grades of American Watches. 

FULL TRADE DISCOUNT TO DEALERS. 
No. 92 Fulton Street, NEW YORK. 



p. o. Box 6ir. 63 Nassau Street> N. T. 

IMPORTER OF 

Watches and Movements. 

SOLE AGENT FOR 

Vacheron & Constantin's Celebrated 1 Watches, 

IN GENEVA. 

ALSO FOR THE COMPLICATED WATCHES OF 

A. HUGUENIN & SONS, LOOLE, SWITZERLAND. 

ZB^IR/I-IElsrS So RICE, 
No. 3 JOHN STREST, Iff. IT. 

IMPORTERS OF WATCHES. 

w&Tr©30 am© ^)03©?3@iaiiria makiu§. 

Watches of Our Own Make and the Most Celebrated- Makers. 

SOLE AGENTS FOR THE* 

UICOLB, UISIiBEU & CO., 
LONDON WATCHES, 

AND FOR THE 

STAB. W ATCIX OOOVEI^-A.Krsr, G-oxxexr**, 

Medals and Diplomas at the International Exhibitions 
In London '62. Paris '67. Vienna '72. Philadelphia '76. 



COURVOISIER, WILCOX & CO., 

Importers of Swiss Movements 

Manufactured by Ohas.'P. Tissot & Son, Locle, Switzerland. 

j^- These celebrated movements are made in Four Qualities, marked as follows : 
First Quality, Ghas F. Tissot. Second Quality Oas. F Tissot & Son. 

Third Quality, Chas. Tissot Favre. Fourth Quality, Tissot & Co. 
Tne above movement a vl cases sold separately. Our line of Fine and Com- 

plicated Movements of this celebrated make is unusually complete and 

attractive, and for superior finish and time keeping qualities have achieved a 

high reputation in the trade. 

We are also manufacturers of Fine GOLD CASES artistically designer', 

elegantly finished, and Suitable for SWISS and -AMERICAN Movements. 

These movements and cases are sold apart which materially lessens the cost of 

the Tissot watches. 




Jxt 




vAth 



tt 



(THIRD EDITION.) 



HAND WORK VERSUS MACHINERY, 



THEIR MERITS AND DEFECTS EXPLAINED AND COM- 
PARED. HISTORY OF WATCH MAKING BY 
BOTH SYSTEMS. 



— BY- 



HENRY F. PIAGET, 



OF OVER SIXTY YEARS PRACTICAL EXPERIENCE IN WATCH 
MAKING AND REPAIRING. 



No. 36 MAIDEN LANE, 



/ 



r 



ZNTIE'W YORK, 

WHERE THIS BOOK CAN BE OBTAINED SINGLY OR BY THE QUANTITY. 



1877. 



. 



PUBLISHED BY THE AUTHOR. 




Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1877, by Henry F. Piaget, in the Office of 
the Librarian of Congress, at Washington. 






' I 



Cylinder Escapement. 



Patent or Detached Lever Escapement 



nS> 



i 



i. 



u 







Quarter Second Stem Winder. 




Duplex Escapement. 



Chronometer Escapement. 





WATCH-MAKING, 

BY HAND WORK AND BY MACHINEEY, 

EXPLAINED AND COMPAKED. 



To the American Public: — 

It was my intention not to have written or published anything 
again on the subject of Watches, after issuing the last edition of 
" The Watch " in 1868. But I find now that I have to do it, and 
that it is my duty as a native of Switzerland ; for a Swiss never 
forgets his native land, however long he may have been away, or 
how far he may be from it ; and also as an American citizen and 
the birthplace of my children. I do it also for the purpose of 
endeavoring to assuage the feelings of rivalry which now exist 
between the Swiss and American Watch Manufacturers ; which 
rivalry, if it continues, will end in disastrous consequences to the 
working classes of both nations. I will again state in an impartial 
and plain manner, " What I know about Watches," acquired by 
the practical experience of 60 years. 

These feelings of rivalry and competition have been brought 
about by events hereafter explained, and lately by Mr. Favre 
Perret's speech before the Council of Commerce in Locle, last 
November. I am not doing this because I am personally acquainted 
with him, as I have never seen or spoken to him, but he not being 
here to defend himself, and as, like him, I wish to be impartial, 
and as I have always tried to be truthful in my statements, I 
will discuss with the public both sides of the question, then let 
them and time decide who is right or wrong. 

I will have to repeat in order to be better understood, some 
parts of his speech, which, although published in many journals 
and newspapers ; in some it was not done correctly, but only 
reported in such a manner, that would suit certain parties. I must 
observe that I really think, that more was said to the Swiss than 
was really necessary, as it had, I am afraid, the effect to dishearten 



many of them, but let them like their forefathers, " buckle on 
their armor," and they will yet find that "right will conquer 
might." 

As to the statement made that " we would not find one such 
watch among fifty thousand of our manufacture," I consider 
perfectly absurd and even ridiculous, and must have been said by 
a person who could not have had much experience in American 
Watches. He certainly must have been prejudiced or he must 
have alluded to the cheap or camelotte kind of Swiss ones, and not 
to the kind called bon courant or medium grade, made in Locle, 
Chauz de Fonds, Neuchatel or Geneva, which are fully equal to 
the fifth grade of the American which he examined, and I will 
even say better, for I maintain that a Swiss movement costing at 
the factory 75 francs or 16 dollars, finished by hand work, particu- 
larly if smaller, flatter or thinner than the usual American 18 size, 
will be better finished, keep more accurate time, and last good, 
longer, than one made entirely by machinery for the same price. 
My reasons will be explained as I proceed with my explanations of 
the different systems of manufacturing, although I must acknowl- 
edge that the Swiss have not been careful enough to have their 
Watches properly regulated before they were sent away, particularly 
the cheap kind. 

He said " it is evident that the great question is to know 
whether the Americans are able to supply their own market, 
'if so ' we shall be expelled from the American market, but I 
expect even then, carefully finished Watches, in which branch we 
still are, and I hope will still remain their masters." The American 
journals have suppressed the word ' if ' and replaced the words 
' carefully finished ' or soignes by that of complicated. This 
makes me say: 'yes, we shall be expelled from the American 
market/ This clearly changes the meaning and importance of my 
words I understand to the fullest extent, the powerful opposition 
which the Americans know so well how to make, but I will not 
permit the sense of what I have said to be perverted by such 
artifice, or unworthy means employed to spread falsehoods under 
cover of my name and official position, as member of the jury of 
exhibition at Philadelphia." 

Since then he has been accused of having turned a " somersault'' 
and of having "turned himself inside out." Now, like him, I have 
been blamed and slandered for having told the truth and giving 
good advice in my former editions. I know exactly what his 
feelings must be, particularly when his meaning, which I believe 
was honest was so perverted and misunderstood. 



When I impartially explained facts about the " merits and 
defects" in different kinds of watches, I was ridiculed, abused, and 
stigmatized as a " boaster," that I told too much. This I will 
admit, as I exposed many evils, that I was too partial, had too 
many "old fogy notions, &o. When I mentioned to some that I 
intended to issue a third edition of my work, they said that it was 
useless, that this was a ''progressive age," and could not be ap- 
plied to watches made on the old principle of hand work. My 
object is now to show how beneficial or otherwise this " progres- 
sion" has been to the working classes, and also to compare both 
systems of hand and machinery made watches, as well as endeavor 
to explain the relative " merits and defects," as I did many years 
ago, of those made previous to that. 

I would respectfully request of anyone having this pamphlet, 
that they will take the trouble to read it thoroughly through, not 
skip from one part to another, as perhaps by doing so they might 
miss some words, as " if," " finely finished,' ' or " complicated," or 
others, whereby my meaning and purport would be changed. 

I shall for fear of being also accused of turning a " somersault" 
be compelled to refer to several parts of the former editions of 
" The Watch," as well as to the history of watch making in Europe 
and America, when I gave the names of the best and most re- 
liable makers of England, France, Switzerland and America, with 
my opinions of them all. 

I would also say to those who have made the observation that 
I was " too old" to know much about the way of manufacturing 
now, that, thank Heaven, my intellect, my hearing, and my 
sight are but slightly impaired yet, those three very essential 
faculties in watch work, nor have I forgotten what I learned about 
it, and, although I should find it difficult to do now by hand what 
I have formerly done, I assure them that I can do much of it yet, 
and if I have it done I can judge if it is done in a proper manner. 
I did not learn my trade by the present style of making watch 
makers, which is often only by theory, but by the old, although 
slow process, together with long practical experience, but which I 
maintain till this " fast age," was the best. 

The question now is not exactly as it used to be who can 
make the best and most durable watch, but who can make the 
cheapest and the greatest quantity, not for the benefit of the work- 
man, but in many cases for the profit of speculators and the 
enriching of the " drones in the hives " 

I do not pretend to be a scientific writer on horology, a Reed, 
Berthoud, Earnshaw, Grossman, &c, have been, or as some good 



• 



ones are now, while there are some who write on this subject now, 
who know as much about it as I do about locomotives. 

They often use many, as they think learned and technical 
words about the different parts, that it often puzzles practical 
workmen to understand their meaning. For my part I try to ex- 
plain myself in as plain a manner as possible so that all the public, 
as well as watch makers, can understand what I mean, that is " if 
they will acknowledge it. 

I do pretend that I was the first to publish an essay on 
watches in this country, which was afterwards copied with my 
permission, as it was copyrighted, in the Scientific American, which 
they certainly would not have done if useless and not worthy. 

I was also the first that obtained Prizes for my own work. 
After I published my first book it was followed by publications and 
papers on the same subject, the appearance and engravings of 
which are certainly better and more showy than mine, but they 
were principally for the purpose of advertisements for the Watch 
and Jewelry trade. 

There is certainly some very excellent articles in some of them 
and very useful to many in both trades. But there are some that 
think that by only reading them they can become manufacturing 
jewellers or repairers of watches without the aid of any other teach- 
ers. If they can, I wish them success, but I am afraid that in many 
instances they will only make more work for the more experienced 
workmen. 

My work was only to inform the public what a delicate piece 
of machinery a watch was, what care was required to keep it in 
good order ; what I knew about the different kinds, of all 
countries ; the opinions, suggestions and advices given were mine 
and for the use of all wearers of watches as well as for watch 
makers. 

It could not be correct, because it did not agree with the 
ideas of some of making money without work, and I was derided 
and scoffed at. I say this because several attempted to injure my 
little business prospects. But, thank Providence, although it was 
done to some extent, I am here yet and will endeavor to help with 
my pen, the working classes of Switzerland in their struggle 
against capital, bombast and many false representations, particu- 
larly after they had toiled for so many years, to improve themselves, 
and had nearly obtained perfection in fine and carefully finished 
as well as in complicated watches. 

It must be understood that a complicated watch must neces- 
sarily be carefully finished, to be good. There are many compli- 



5 

cated ones that are not good, their complication only serving to 
make them bad, particularly if they are put in unskilled workmen's 
hands to clean or repair. 

The English have nearly obtained perfection for their Chro- 
nometers and Duplex escapements, but do not make so many a s 
of the Levers, on account of the difficulty of having them properly 
repaired in case of accidents, neither are they so well adapted for 
the pocket. 

Wishing to explain the different systems, " if" I say anything 
to offend either party, I beforehand apologize, but I always have 
been and I am still a workingman and as such wish to protect with 
all in my power the interest of my fellow craftsmen. Some may 
deride me and say that I can do nothing, or do any good, but I 
have always found that " one story is good till another is told," at 
the same time giving " honor where honor is due,'' and as Pope 
said : 

" 'Tis with our judgments as our watches, none 
Go just alike, but each believes his own," 

which although said a century ago is appropriate to the present 
time. 

I certainly agree with what was said that the Swiss had placed 
too much confidence in their way of manufacturing by the old sys- 
tem, and that the Americans have excelled them in their adoption 
of machinery of all kinds for lessening the labor and lowering the 
prices of watches. But I do not yet admit that they have equalled 
or surpassed the Swiss in the quality for the same price, particu- 
larly when the heavy duty on their importation is considered, and 
made by good and skilful workmen such as are to be found in 
Geneva, Locle, Val du Joux, &c , particularly for fine carefully 
finished and complicated as well as small and thin watches. It 
may be yet accomplished here, but the day is far distant. The 
fashion also may change although not to such an extent or so 
often as clothing, jewelery, &c. I well remember the time when in 
Europe it was the fashion for all that could afford it, to carry a re- 
peating watch. That was the reason that I first learned to make 
the repeating part of them The musical and repeating watches 
were also made in Switzerland at that time. They would play a 
distinct tune with 24 springs, would play an air every hour if 
wanted, or could be made to play at any time. All this required 
three distinct set of wheels and 3 springs, one for the watch part 
which was usually with a cylinder escapement, one for the repeat- 
ing part and one for the musical part. There is some to be found 
occasionally, but they have not been made for years. Seals to wear 



6 

with the chains from the fob were also made with music, but they 
soon went out of date as only 10 or 12 springs could be applied 
for the air and could not be very correct. The most complicated 
watch that I worked at when apprenticed in London was one with 
a duplex escapement made for Arnold. It consisted of a clock 
arrangement that struck every quarter of an hour, similar to the 
clock on Trinity Church, New York, with the exception of its only 
striking two blows instead of four for the quarters. It repeated 
the hours and quarters and half quarters at pleasure, and had also 
an alarm which could be set to any time, the striking was all done 
on five different spiral springs. Thus, with the watch part it had 
four distinct sets of wheels and springs in barrels. Although the 
size did not exceed that of an ordinary English watch, the cost of 
it was four hundred guineas, two thousand dollars. But few such 
watches were ever made, neither ought they to be, as like the very 
small and complicated ones that were made many years back, a 
lunatic asylum would have to be erected for crazy watch makers, 
who worked long at them. About the year 1830 the fashion changed, 
and I then had to learn other branches of watch work, such as 
escapement making, or finishing, &c. 

But the fashions will always change somewhat in every 
business, and persons do sometimes get tired of wearing the same 
watch, unless he has a very good one, which he will be very 
reluctant to part with, unless it has been spoiled in repairing, often 
past redemption, as it is often the case after going through the 
hands of some of the so called watch makers, which in this country 
is a very common occurrence. 

If the Swiss would only follow the advice given to them, they 
should establish schools for watch-makers and repairers, where 
every branch can be taught. Simplify, improve and perfect as well as 
make new machinery as the Americans have done, which seeing 
the danger they are in, they will certainly do. Let them remem- 
ber that the French Exposition of 1878 may also tell a different 
tale than that of Philadelphia. I have no doubt that they will 
regain whatever they may have lost, and by exertion and care, 
Switzerland may yet prove herself the model nation for watches, 
as they have been for republics throughout the world. 

It may seem presumptious in me to say so, but I must give 
my opinion, which I do without any intention to disparage or 
injure any manufactories if carried on in an honorable way, and 
with justice to the workingmen. I wish there was enough demand 
for more of them, for the sake of workmen or laboring classes. 

But I believe with my long experience on every kind of 



English, French, Swiss and American watches, I ought to be well 
posted by this time, about the quality, durability, accuracy and 
finish of all, which I explained before ; and now since there has 
been a change in manufacturing will try to do again. I wish to 
show that both systems have merits as well as faults, also what 
will be the result from overstocking the market. If the Swiss and 
Americans had only worked in unison together, they might have 
commanded the whole watch trade of the world profitably to both 
nations, but to do this effectually, the Americans must adopt a more 
effective method of making apprentices, entirely different from 
their present system of making watchmakers and repairers, which 
is in many instances, that if a young man can only take a watch to 
pieces and put it together again, he thinks himself a watchmaker, 
and will give his opinion on the quality of a watch, or should it be 
out of order, will in a very wise way tell you what it wants doing 
to, to make it all right, often quiet the reverse of what it really 
requires. 

After my long apprenticeship and much longer practice, I am 
not ashamed to say that I can still learn something, for watch 
repairing on all description of watches, is never learned thoroughly. 
Will our young watch makers all say the same ? I doubt it, for 
they, according to their notion, know more than their fathers or 
elders; for we are in a " progressive age." I grant that we are 
for many things, for general machinery, &c, but not much in 
making better timekeepers, that will last good as long, if properly 
and timely attended, as some made twenty to thirty years ago. Of 
course the improvements in regulating, in labor saving machinery, 
&c, have been very great since that time. Observatories have been 
built in Switzerland and America, compensation and isochronism is 
better understood, as well as rating to heat, cold and positions, 
but did America discover all that ? 

My purpose now is to repeat some of my suggestions given 
many years ago, about watches made by machinery and finished 
by hand work. For it is well known that machines always had to 
be used to some extent for making the movements, cutting the 
pinions and wheels, &c. Although I remember the time when the 
train wheels could only be cut straight down, and the rounding of 
the teeth had to be done with a tool made purposely for that pur- 
pose, and even it had to be done with a file sometimes as well as 
the teeth of several pieces used in the repeating part of some, as I 
can show by some old pieces that I have yet 

I am now giving my opinion about those watches made entirely 
and the different pieces finished all through by machinery, and 



8 

leave it to practical mechanics to judge whether I am wrong in my 
statements. Also what the consequences will be if watches are all 
made in that manner hereafter. 

Some may say never mind the hereafter, as long as we make 
money. But if many had in several other cases beside watcher, 
thought more of the hereafter, how much sorrow, trouble and re- 
grets would have been avoided not only to themselves but to their 
descendants. 

Another cause of this rivalry is the great facilities for manu- 
facturing by machinery, the quantity made far exceeding the 
demand. By competition and by the machination of a number 
of unprincipled parties in both countries, I should also 
say in England, for I consider the importer as guilty as the makers 
who do not value the reputation of any nation, who had watches 
made in Switzerland and passed off as English or American make, 
and trash made in England with bogus and even real names and 
passed them off as good and genuine ones. 

This was not done by any respectable importers or manufac- 
turers, but principally by a certain class of men who care nothing 
about character as long as they can make money by it, and are 
always ready to buy anything, besides taking the advantage of 
any one who may be straightened in his circumstances, to buy 
cheap, for they always can find the cash if great bargains can be 
had ; of course there are some honest ones among the number, but 
they are scarce and far between. I am sorry to say that it is still 
done with the American watches. It was formerly done consider- 
ably with the Waltham watches, but now it is done more with the 
Howard, as being the dearest of the American make, they can 
make more by it. The prices of the others, having been reduced 
so much there is not profit enough to run the risk of being exposed 
as cheats and imposters, the law is severe in all countries against 
this fraud, but throughout the world many will be found who can 
always find the means to evade the laws, particularly in this 
country, the American public not able to discern a genuine 
English from an imitation, and often a bad watch were compelled 
to try an American made one. This was previous to 1860, when 
the manufacture in this country was yet in its infancy. This watch 
being large, thick and strong, took the place of the bad English of 
which this country was flooded with at that time, and which if not 
well made is the worst kind of time-keeper; no dependence can be 
placed on it for accuracy on account of the chain and the fuzee 
with all its gearings of maintaining power, click and spring, and 
the old fashioned stop work, with spring on the upper plate, &c, 



9 

which if not properly made, had better be dispensed with. If well 
made as in the fine quality of English watches they are very good, 
serving to equalize the strength of the main spring. They cannot 
be applied to thin watches, as the chain takes too much room on 
the fuzee, &c. The American watch having done away with all 
this, being more simple, more capable of standing hard usage, 
easier repaired and cheaper than the really good English, soon 
drove the bad or cheap kind out. The Americans, who fill then 
had not succeeded in their manufacture, and finding that the 
Swiss watches of a medium grade were becoming the favorite in 
this country, instead of importing their movements or parts of 
them and having the cases made here and being " wide awake," 
while the Swiss were dozing, went to Switzerland and England, 
studied and copied the system of watch-making, improved and 
simplified their machinery beside inventing new ones Then got 
principally English workmen, as none could then be obtained in 
Switzerland, where more wages could then be obtained than here. 
All this took place at the commencement and during our last war 
when there was an immense demand for watches, particularly good 
sound, and substantial ones that resembled the English. The 
watch trade being very dull in England at that time, workmen 
were easily induced to come over to teach the " Yankees" or 
"Mud-sills'' as they then called the Northern part of America, if 
well paid for it. This was the time for the Americans to make a 
' bold strike," which they know so well how to do They built 
large factories, some with windows all around, for there is no 
window tax here, put in their improved machinery, worked by 
steam power of course, employed boys and girls, (I beg pardon, I 
should have said young ladies and young gentlemen, for in this 
" progressive age" we have no girls or boys ; now we have children, 
from which they emerge into ladies and gentlemen) to attend to 
the machines, which was easily learned. They then formed stock 
companies, advertised extensively, puffed considerably about mak- 
ing the best and cheapest watch in the world. But the last blow 
to the Swiss manufactures was the Centennial Exhibition, which 
was to bring such good times and make all trades revive in this 
country, as the times were dull enough before. How much they 
have improved since, I must let the reader decide I cannot give 
any opinion about that, except bad. Through these several causes 
the manufacture of watches has got to be what it is now in this 
country, immense. But I have my doubts as to its being eventually 
very beneficial to the working classes of watch makers ; I am 
afraid it will prove as it does so often with incorporated companies, 



10 

some may make money by them for a time, particularly the officials, 
but generally they end in the " big fishes swallowing up the little," 
which some of them are now striving to do. 

I give them all the praise 1 they deserve from the buyers in 
bringing down the prices, for the present at least, so much lower 
than they were, but I question if, in the course of time, it will prove 
very advantageous to the stockholders, as well as to the workmen. 
This has already been the case with several. Then how many will 
it impoverish and throw out of work. Then about the quality ; 
they will certainly deteriorate, as they are made cheaper, owing to 
the competition not only with Switzerland, but with each other in 
this country, and possibly in a few years with Japan and China, as 
Chinese are employed in this business in California, who work for 
fifty cents a day. They are it is well known very quick in learning 
any light trade and it may yet come to, China versus America in 
the watches as it is now America versus Switzerland. 

In the meantime let not the Swiss slumber again, but like the 
Americans, keep 'wide awake," and let this competition emulate 
them so that they may yet compete with the world in watch work, 
for they have been and I hope are yet a nation that will fight hard 
for their rights, only give them good, skilful teachers and leaders. 
I shall have to make extracts from my former editions of this work 
to show that it is asserting too much in saying that watches made 
entirely by machinery are the best. I will show what I said to the 
Swiss in 1868 about losiug their trade in this country, as well as my 
advice and suggestions to them and also to the American manufac. 
turers, together with my advice about selecting, purchasing 
and taking care of watches, all of which was given at that time 
and will now repeat. You can then judge for yourselves whether 
the advice was good or bad, and if they have followed it or 
not. It will show you what my opinions were then, after which I 
will state plainly and impartially what they are now, but first I 
must again refer to the impression that still remains on the minds 
of many persons in this country that the whole of the bogus and 
imitation watches, with real makers' names, came from Switzerland, 
it is not so, the English ones were made in England and were called 
Coventry Watches, to designate them from the London or Liver- 
pool ones, as plated jewelry was called to designate it from the 
good, Brummagem jewelry, although the Swiss have sins enough 
to answer for, I do not think it right that they should also have 
to bear those of the English as well. The difference can easily 
be detected, as those made in England have the fuzee and chain, 
and are generally full plates with the brass cap usually put over 



11 

their movement, and the movement opens in front. While those 
made in Switzerland are thinner without the fuzee, and open 
at the back of the case like the American movements, and are 
most with half plates or bars to hold the wheels and escapement. 
I memVon this to lighten the load off the shoulders of the Swiss, 
to whom I said : " The Swiss made a great mistake many years 
ago, and I am afraid it is still done ; that of putting English and 
fictitious names upon their watches instead of their own. Had 
they not done so the really good makers of Switzerland would 
have been known in America long before this, and they would 
not have lost so much of their American trade, which I am sure 
they will agree with me in saying they have done. I do not mean 
to say that although these watches bore false names, they were 
not good. I will admit that some of them were very good. Still, 
it was a fraud on the public, and according to my ideas of honesty, 
quite culpable. It deserved not to prosper, and it did not. 

By continuing this practice for several years and to a great 
extent, their work was condemned, and they were stigmatized as 
imposters and cheats ; so that their watches, or at least many of 
them, were looked upon as disreputable pieces of workmanship, 
and the Swiss very nearly lost their American trade and the 
reputation of being an upright nation ; although, until this was 
exposed, they had enjoyed the people's confidence. But, after- 
wards, they became afraid of the Swiss watch. By many it was 
innocently done, they thinking it was all right so long as they 
received the orders to execute them, not thinking of the conse- 
quences. Some, however, of the most respectable manufacturers 
both in England, where this fraud was carried on, and in Switzer- 
land also, would not receive the orders in that way. But if an 
order was given they would engrave on the movement or on the 

case, "Made by for ," giving name and place where 

made, leaving it to the honesty of the parties selling it, to properly 
represent it. 

I am glad that they have at last awoke to the necessity of 
having a good name and of maintaining it. Over thirty years 
ago, I said that the day would come when the Swiss would repent 
this to their cost, and I find now that my words have come true. 
They now see the mischief and the folly of it. The plan that I 
had suggested was that they should put their own names on the 
watches that they knew to be good, and on those of inferior 
quality such as they could not recommend no name at all. If they 
wished to have them engraved give the proper description of what 
they were, and not " Patent Detached Levers," or "FullJewelled/' 



12 

on common Lepines and even on Verge watches. But by persist- 
ing in this they were encouraging a system of cheating traffic, 
which they must have known was absolutely wrong. 

I am sorry to say that at the present time this deception is 
still practised, of engraving false names on their imitation of 
American watches. In England this fraud was not carried on to 
such an extent, yet it was of engraving the names of good makers 
on very inferior English movements. 

The Swiss are now, as the saying is, " paid back in their own 
coin," for many who first induced them to do this wrong are now 
trying to injure their manufacture by giving them a bad name. 

When I wrote this ten years ago I did not think that the last 
part would come so true as I now find it has, but it is so, which 
cannot be denied. In speaking of the American watches I also 
said at the same time I would earnestly recommend to all manu- 
facturers of American watches, if they desire to make their manu- 
factures permanent and lasting, not to relax in the quality of the 
materials and the metals used, or in the finish of their movements, 
for if they do they will assuredly share the fate of the " Yankee 
clocks," as the English call them. Those wishing clocks durable 
and to be depended upon, are going back to the English or French 
make, unless they have an American made one of very good quality, 
such as are made by the Waterbury Clock Company. 

Strive to be continually improving your works and never 
make a movement without a stop work ; any kind will do, if made 
to stop at the center and not at the end of the main spring. Let 
not an imperfect article leave your factories if it can be avoided, 
particularly in fine watches, for if you do the English will keep the 
lead for large watches and chronometers, and the Swiss for the 
small and complicated ones. The latter people have been im- 
proving their work very much of late years, and will continue to 
do so, if they are paid a fair remunerative price for their labor, for 
remember the Swiss like the Americans are a persevering, skillful 
and industrious nation, and will not allow any other to excel them 
in watch work. There are so many in that country depending 
upon this business for support, that they are stimulated all the 
time to keep improving themselves and perfecting their watches.'' 

I now must beg of the reader to remember that what I said to 
both, was ten years ago, when I think the Americans did not claim 
to make and finish all their watches by machinery alone. They 
might possibly their inferior grades, but not their finest ones. 

The Swiss have followed my suggestions in having their own 
names on their watches, yet I find that there are still many watches 



13 

made with false or bogus names, not as formerly with English 
names, but with those of some of the most celebrated makers of 
England, Switzerland and America, but altered in such a way by 
either adding or suppressing one or two letters that they may 
evade the law ; and it requires a very good judge to detect the dif- 
ference, of the genuine from the imitation, not only in the move- 
ment, but in the case. The American manufactories, or at least 
some of them, have certainly very much improved their watches in 
the last few years, and made wonderful progress in watch work, 
and I would again name the Howard, Boston, the National Elgin, 
the American Waltham, Springfield, 111., and the Springfield 
Mass., as the best, that is if they do not get too much in the cheap 
system, as I know that any one in almost any mechanical trade 
using himself to work on common or inferior articles, finds it very 
difficult to return to the fine. I think that many good artisans will 
bear me out ia this assertion, I have always found that it is more 
trouble to do good work, after making common for some time, than 
to learn to make good from the first. 

Unfortunately, this cheap work is not made now for the pur- 
pose of driving the bad English watches out of the market, for 
that is pretty well over now ; but it is for the purpose of driving 
the Swiss ones out also. 

Appertaining to these suggestions follows what I also said to 
watch purchasers. After giving a list of some of the best makers 
of England, Switzerland and America, I must here observe that 
in clocks there has been a very great improvement in this country 
both in the style and quality, in a few years, particularly in those 
of the Waterbury Clock Company. But I am not discussing clock 
work, but watches. I said then, and again repeat, " I speak of all 
these makers from my own long practical experience with the 
makers and quality of their works, having had some of each kind 
through my hands to clean or repair. But I must again impress 
upon the minds of the inexperienced in the trade, as well as the 
public, wishing to obtain a watch of any particular maker, to get 
it of reputable parties, of those on whom you can depend ; to get 
the genuine movement as well as the quality of the gold, etc., in 
the case, as there are still many imitations in the market — I may 
say, perhaps more than ever. 

Some may have been foisted upon the inexperienced in the 
trade, by reason of their not being able to detect the difference, 
which it is in many cases difficult to do. I believe that few can 
detect the difference between the genuine and the counterfeit 
watches, particularly now, unless he has worked in the factories 



u 

of England for English, those of Switzerland for Swiss, in Geneva 
for real Geneva watches, those of Besancon now for French 
ones, and those of America for American, or have been practical 
workmen for some time themselves," for there is in every different 
factory a particular style that only practical men can detect. 
Although many changes have taken place in ten years, this is still 
my opinion and my advice about choosing a watch, given at the 
same time. " The person who wishes to obtain a good time-keeper 
should apply to a watch-maker or dealer, of well-known honesty 
and ability in his art or business, and who therefore should be 
implicitly trusted. This will apply also to jewelry of every kind 
as well as to watch cases, and to clocks also. The various prices 
will generally point out the comparative quality of the works, al- 
though I must here observe that often fabulous prices are fre- 
quently paid for some particular or favorite names, when other 
makers may be just as good, and can be obtained for much lower 
prices, for the days for fancy prices are about over. 

The external of a good time-keeper forms but a small portion 
of the expense, unless it is very richly and elaborately enameled. 
In regard to chosing either an English, a Swiss or an American 
movement, circumstances must in many instances determine that. 
There are good makes in each country. Be sure to get one with 
the genuine name, if you have a preference for any particular 
maker. 

Eor a moderate size one, and if you want a thoroughly 
good and lasting time-keeper, take an English, for I still adhere to 
my old notion — ridicule it if you wish — that if you are able to pay 
the price, there are no better watches made than a good English 
one, with either a duplex or lever escapement ; compensated bal- 
ance, properly adjusted, and it cannot be excelled for durability 
and good performance, etc., under all circumstances. The chro" 
nometer escapement although the best of all, I cannot strongly 
recommend for the pocket. It is too delicate for any sudden jar 
as riding on horseback, jumping off the trains, etc. I still main- 
tain that to properly equalize the strength, of the mainspring the 
fuzee is useful if you wish something perfect. Still if the main- 
spring is made properly to draw equally, and with a good stop 
work to equalize its strength, a watch with a going barrel can be 
made to keep as correct time as any person can desire. For one 
of about the same size and thickness, and if you are travelling and 
are going where you may not find any very skilful watch repairers, 
take an American one. The price will generally regulate the quality. 
They are more simple, easier repaired and will endure harder usage 



15 

than any other ; they have been much improved since the com- 
petition has been so great. For a thinner, or a smaller, carefully 
finished or complicated watch, especially for a lady's size, choose a 
Swiss one, for they certainly are to be preferred either for small 
sizes and for low prices, for the same quality in comparison to any 
other. 

As for stem-winder of any makers, be sure to get them only 
on good watches, otherwise you had better get the key winder, for 
a poor or common stem winder will be a continual source of 
trouble and expense to you. 

But I find that I am running away from the subject that I 
intended to write about at first — the comparing of hand made and 
machine made watches, so "touch the fly back to the chrono- 
graph," and begin or start again. 

The English certainly must have the praise of being the first 
to make chronometers, duplex and lever escapements, and even 
the cylinder, which when the ruby cylinders were made, could 
be regulated as close as any reasonable person would desire. 
They were also the first to properly apply and make the compen- 
sation balances for watches They were the discoverers and the 
first to make cutting machines, whereby the teeth of the train 
wheels could be cut and rounded at the same time without remov- 
ing the wheel from engine or cutters They were the first to offer 
prizes, not merely medals, for the best Chronometers, not for 
handsome finish, but for the good performance of their works . 

Where will you find better chronometers or watches than 
those made by Earnshaw, Arnold, Barrauds Brockbanks, Frod- 
sham, E. D. Johnson, F. B. Adams, T. F. Cooper, Hoddell, Chas. 
Taylor, Guillame and even M. T. Tobias and B. and G. Beesly of 
Liverpool. But any of these must be genuine to be really good. 
For complicated and finely finished, sporting, calendar, repeating 
and plain stem-winding watches, I consider at the present time 
that those made by Nicole, Nielson & Co , late Nicole & Capt, of 
London, are as near perfection in the art as any that I have ever 
seen. The French, although not now manufacturing many for ex- 
portation, must not be omitted, as they were the first to apply the 
going barrel to do away with the fuzee and chain, whereby thinner 
watches could be made. Any statements to the contrary are in- 
correct. The English followed after, for their flat watches, be- 
fore the year 1815. When I worked at the trade in London, 
when a mere boy, I saw them in use then. The Swiss adapted it 
about the same time, for their cylinder as well as for some of their 



16 

verge watches. That was long before Americans thought of mak- 
ing watches. 

In France Breguet was the first to apply isochronal main- 
springs, and were and are still often called Breguet hair-springs* 
We must not forget such names as Lepine, the inventor of flat 
watches, Le Roy, Oudin, Audemars, etc. They were the first to 
reduce the sizes and thickness of watches for general use. There 
certainly had been some very small ones made before, but I am 
now only describing those for the use of the public at large. 

The inventions and improvements made in America on the 
movements, have been the "Foggs Patent Pinion,'' whereby the 
recoil of the barrel when the spring breaks, prevents the teeth of 
the train wheels or barrel as well as the leaves of the pinions from 
being injured. They also invented several different kinds of 
" Patent Regulators," to move the regulator to much more nicety 
than could be done by the old way of pushing it with the hand 
toward fast or slow. All these are certainly improvements and 
are good, but there are some things the invention of which they 
claim that I cannot or will not admit. I have been too long in the 
business not to know something about it ; I am willing that they 
shall have all the credit and praise that they deserve, but as I 
started with the promise of being impartial and only stating 
" what I know," I must keep my word good as far as possible. 
The Swiss must have some credit for the great perfection that they 
have attained in finely finished and complicated as well as pretty 
and tasty watches, and also for being the first to make watches by 
machinery. It is the house that I referred to in " The Watch" in 
1860, although at the time I did not give the name, I said, " That 
there was in Geneva a manufactory where watches were all made 
in the same building, etc." I alluded to the house of Vacheron 
& Constantin, which is still in existence, although the name of the 
firm has been somewhat changed, but not the quality of the goods, 
which have rather improved than otherwise. I may safely say 
that thousands have passed through my hands, and I always found 
them good ; but although they are made by machinery they are 
finished by hand, and I am still of the opinion that good time- 
keepers have to be, to be long reliable. They had also every part 
made so that they could be duplicated at any time, and although 
they had several sizes they only had two qualities of movements, 
so that the Americans cannot rightly claim to be the first to make 
watches by machinery. These and many other Geneva watches 
have never been excelled for their good performance, and like 
the best English, are noted for durability and accuracy, yet like all 



17 

finely finished or complicated watches, of any make, they must be 
put in good, skilful and honest workmen's hands to clean or repair. 
Unfortunately in this country there is a scarcity of really good and 
honest repairers. They will after some time, if not properly 
watched, get careless ; but I suppose it must be on account of the 
"progression" of the age. As "fair play is a jewel" in every 
country, I certainly give the Americans credit for simplifying some- 
what the movement for improved machinery, improved regulators, 
patent reversible pinions, etc., but I can not admit that they in- 
vented the machinery-made watch. They certainly deserve great 
praise for all they have done in favor of lessening the hand labor 
in watch work, but I do not think that they have yet obtained the 
victory over Switzerland for watch work, although I grant they 
have in machinery of every kind. The buyer ought to be thankful 
that they have lowered the prices, but whether the quality will be 
sustained or improved by it, time will show. For my part, I doubt 
it. Switzerland can boast of such makers as Jurgersen, Ed. Per- 
regaux, James Nardin, Chas. Tissot & Son, Borel & Courvoisier, 
A. Huguenin-Nardin, Lutz Brothers, Perret & Co , the Star Watch 
Co., of Geneva, Philadelphia "Watch Co., Paulus's Patent, A- 
Huguenin & Sons, and a host of others, not forgetting Beguelin 
Houriet, of Tramelan, who I consider, without fear of contradiction} 
has sent as good watches, for the price, as any other maker in 
Switzerland. I examined the first ones that came in this country 
twenty year sago. He made many for me with my name on. I have 
always and do yet recommend them for their good performance 
and durability. Between the years 1814 and 1826 there was a 
great competition and rivalry between England and Switzerland 
about repeating watches, and it still exists to some extent about 
plain ones, but to the credit of the big nation, it did not attempt 
to crush the little Kepublic, but rather tried to help along its in- 
dustry. One proof is that all watches now enter England duty 
free. They worked in union together. The movements were sent 
from England to Switzerland ; as I stated before, the Swiss never 
made many with fuzees. The repeating parts were made, the 
trains also for them pivotted and finished. This could be done 
for half the price paid in London, and is still done. Many move- 
ments without the fuzee are made in Switzerland. The escape- 
ments, compensation balances, jeweling, engraving, gilding, and 
dials and cases, are made in London. This is also done here in 
some cases, the movements are imported and sometimes jeweled, 
gilt and the cases made in America. 

J thought the Americans would have been satisfied with what 



18 

they had already achieved, which was certainly wonderful in so 
short a time, and let their watches take the place of the English 
ones which they had driven out of this market, but no, they must 
go further yet and try to drive the Swiss out as well. 

There was enough made in both countries together to have 
supplied the whole world. I supposed that the Swiss now putting 
their own names on their manufacture, would have been satisfac- 
tory to them and that by exhibiting in Philadelphia, they as well 
as the Swiss wished to show the world what could be done in both 
countries in watch work, but unfortunately it has brought on all 
this pivot war which will only be the means of increasing the num- 
ber of tickers to the detriment of the working classes in that 
branch of commerce. As many of my readers may not know how 
the ship chronometers were rated and tested in England, I will tell 
them. Some of my friends among watch-makers may laugh and 
say, when before I endeavored to relate and explain anything which 
I thought some would like to know, " Why, we all know that,'' I 
wish to remind them that what I write and publish is not for the 
trade alone, but for general information for the public. 

The manner of testing the accuracy of chronometers was thus : 
After having been well regulated and rated to heat and cold, the 
different positions are not so necessary as in a watch, as a ship 
chronometer must always be in the same position, with dial up ; 
hence the double swing boxes that they are all fitted in. They 
were then sent to the Observatory at Greenwich, where they were 
again rated as close as possible. After that, they were locked and 
sealed in such a manner that nothing could be done to them 
except to wind them up and keep them going all the time. They 
were put on board a ship under charge of some competent person 
to wind them regularly, then sent on a voyage round the world, to 
the East Indies, China, etc., and back. This at that time took 
over one year to accomplish ; on their return they were unsealed 
and opened and the rates compared by the same Observatory, and 
first, second and third prizes awarded, which at first amounted to 
twenty thousand guineas or one hundred thousand dollars, rewards 
well worth contending for. The same thing was also done in France 
for the French saw the importance of it for their own navy. After 
as near perfection as they thought could be obtained, the prizes 
were not awarded. But now not only chronometers, but also 
watches as well, are tested for the honor and credit of the different 
manufacturers. The latter, however, are not sent on a " voyage of 
discovery," but shifted from an oven to an ice-house for the space 
of three to four months and the watches tried in different positions 



19 

as well as to heat and cold. My opinion about properly testing a 
watch, is that after having gone all through this process, that they 
should be subjected for some time to all the different motions that 
a watch is subjected to— such as running, jumping, walking, travel- 
ing by rail, both by steam and otherwise ; but of course that is not 
possible to be done with many. The only manner in which to 
know if you have a really good and accurate time-keeper, is to 
see by a good regulator if your watch goes regularly the same 
every day or week. Whether it loses or gains it can be regulated, 
but if it loses one time and the next time you compare it, it gains, 
then there is something wrong about it and it will not rate. I must 
be understood that I am only speaking now of the finest grade of 
watches. 

I have known engineers and conductors on railways tell me 
that if they do not travel on Sundays, or for some days, that there 
will be a difference in the rates, no matter how fine a watch they 
may carry. English, Swiss and Americans are all liable to this. 
I maintain that any watch, no matter how close you may have had 
it regulated, when not in motion, when worn, and by different 
persons, following different callings or occupations, will vary some- 
what and will therefore require |to be regulated again to some 
extent. Certainly there will be but little variation in some, but more 
in others. I am so particular in describing all this, because I have 
and I doubt not, other watch makers have found the same, that 
there are many persons that wear watches, who almost ask impos- 
sibility in a time-piece, that is subjected to all the ill usage that a 
watch often receives. 

There is sometimes found in cheap watches or medium grades 
I do not mean in trash, some that will run nearly as close as the 
best, under all their trials, but it is " chance work,'' and cannot be 
expected by any reasonable person, particularly for any length of 
time. I have heard some say, " I had a fifteen or a twenty dollar 
silver watch that kept as good time as any two hundred dollar one. 
Now I paid perhaps three hundred dollars for this, and it does not 
regulate as well. What is the reason." My answer to such men 
generally is : " Perhaps you had your twenty dollar watch 
in good hands, to repair all the time, still you were not 
satisfied, but must change, because perhaps he did not 
have a large and showy establishment and had not a great 
display, but done perhaps the work himself or directed 
his workmen how to do it, which, according to the present ideas, is 
degrading, if the orders do not pass through two or three hands, 
or there may be some little fault about it which has been over- 



20 

looked, particularly if he is not a thorough practical workman 
himself." And again, if you buy a ticket in a lottery, can you expect 
to get the highest prize all the time ? How many times will you have 
to try, as you might have had, to succeed in getting as good a 
time-piece for twenty as for two or three hundred dollars ? I must 
do justice to all in saying that I have seen some very close 1 mining 
in the Howard, the Elgin, Waltham and Springfield watches, but 
although they are made by machinery, I think they will acknow- 
ledge that their finest grades are finished by hand. 

I am now defending the watch made partly by machinery and 
finished by handwork, against that made entirely and finished by 
machinery ; also which will prove the most durable, accurate and 
reliable as a time-keeper. 

I have to be particular to explain everything very plainly, 
even if I run the risk of being ridiculed and jeered at, or some of 
my " friends in the trade" will find some technicality for which to 
blame me. 

The question is now, which is the best, a movement made by 
machinery and finished by hand work, or one made and finished 
entirely by machinery Of course the putting up, adjusting and 
regulating must be done by hand. I do not suppose that all you 
have to do is to put the pieces together and in their places, and 
after putting the movement in the case, it is all ready for the 
pocket. Unfortunately some remarks made in Switzerland have 
been construed to mean nearly that ; hence arose so much bicker- 
ing and paper war between both parties. My opinion, if worth 
anything, is, and always has been, that a durable, accurate and re- 
liable time-keeper, should be partly made by machinery as they 
always have been, and finished by hand. Of course, I am but one 
against many, but I repeat again, time which unfolds many things 
will tell. 

The improvements that have been made in this country, has 
not been in the movements alone, but also to the making of the 
cases. I admit that to be a great one, better perhaps than some 
on the movements, because that does not interfere with the 
accuracy of the time, it is another great labor saving invention 
good or bad, in that many differ. For my part I think there is 
more bad than good in it. It has certainly lowered the prices for 
making the cases. (The gold or silver, if of good quality, is the 
same price.) 

It is very convenient when you want a case in a hurry to get it 
ready made, put the movement in it and the watch is ready. "Never 
mind if it does not fit very close round the movement, the dust 



21 

can get in easier, and it will want cleaning sooner, or whether it is 
too high or thick, or whether the shutting or opening will last, and 
many other faults that would not pass in one made by hand. 
It is cheaper and more money can be made by it on the sale, and 
the wearer will not notice the difference." Cases when hand-made, 
are certainly prettier, shut, fit closer, and look better in every 
way than machine-made ones. Let the reader look at some made 
in London, Geneva, or Locle, and even here, when hand-made, 
compare them together, then give your opinion and decision in as 
impartial a manner as I am writing this. 

Kemember also the number of men it has thrown out of 
employment ; but some will say " never mind the men or their fam- 
ilies, we cannot put them in our pockets, but we can the money we 
save by not employing them." Considerate } humane and Christian 
men ! Now for the movement again. It is well known by good 
watch-makers, that a slow beat movement will not regulate under 
all circumstances as one will with the 18,000 or quick beat, which 
all the Swiss good movements have, The English always had it in 
their duplex and the French in their cylinders. Most of the watches 
made in America have the 16/400 beat which, in my opinion, is not 
so good for accurate time in a watch subject to jarring and much 
jolting as it is likely to have in travelling. There are very few 
persons among the many that carry them who ever think of the 
complexity of their delicate mechanism or of the extraordinary 
and increasing labor they perform. Hence the necessity if you 
have a good one of having it looked to at least once within eighteen 

months. If it is a small one, in less time than that if you wish to 
preserve it good. 

Any one that tells you that he will warrant it to go correctly 
for two or three years, as some do, without cleaning or repairing, 
is deceiving you, and does not deserve the name of a watch-maker; 
he is only a seller. There are many who think that it ought to go 
and keep good time for years, without a particle of fresh oil or 
without any, who would not run a common piece of ma- 
chinery of any kind — even a wagon or carriage — without oiling, 
which do but a fraction of the service of some parts of a watch. 
It is true that one with jeweled holes will go long longer than one 
without ; but the jeweled holes must be very smooth and well pol- 
ished, and the wheels as hard as it is possible for brass ones to be. 
They, as well as the plates, if brass, should be hammered, not 
pressed, as is done by machinery. It is well known and acknowl- 
edged by artisans of brass, steel or iron, that the quality is much 
more improved by hammering than by pressure. If the jewel- 



22 

holes are not well polished and the pivots very smooth, a watch 
without extra jewels is better, if the brass is hard and the pivots 
well polished. I have always found that an old-fashioned English, 
Swiss, or French watch, without jewels, except to the ballance 
staff or escape pinion, would go better and last longer in order 
than many of the so-called full jeweled ones. I am sorry I cannot 
say the same of the machine-made watches of America. The 
plates are softer as well as the wheels and pinions. Balances with 
brass and steel combined will go better than the plain steel ones, 
but remember that a balance to be compensated, must be made in 
a peculiar manner. It is not merely by attaching or soldering 
brass and steel together. The brass must be melted on the steel, 
and in proper proportions, and after it is properly made, it has to 
be cut before it will compensate, that is why we read and hear so 
much about cut balances ; they certainly are necessary for accu 
rate and correct time. 

I will now tell you what work the movement of your watch 
does, which, although it seems almost incredible, is nevertheless 
true. 

The main wheel or barrel if without a chain makes 4 revolu- 
tions in 24 hours or 1460 in a year ; the second or center wheel 24 
revolutions in 24 hours or 8760 in a year ; the third wheel 192 in 
24 hours 70,080 in a year ; the fourth wheel, which carries the 
second hand 1440 in 24 hours or 565,600 in a year ; the fifth or 
escape 12,964 in 24 hours or 5,526,000 revolutions in a year. 
While the beats or vibrations in 24 hours are 432,000 or 157,580,- 
000 in a year. Does not that astonish you, yet it is so, and shows 
the necessity of having every part and action perfect, and kept 
clean, and properly oiled. Is it to be wondered, that I say that no 
good workman ought to warrant a watch for more than a year 
without cleaning, as that is as long as the oil can last good in the 
pivot holes. The watch makers and dealers in this country or 
many of them do not attend enough to this. 

They will take a movement or a watch that has perhaps been 
made for years, sell it, wind it up and set it going without first 
cleaning out the old oil from action on the pivots and he is often 
blamed for having sold a watch, that does not go correctly, or only 
a short time. This may do when the purchaser is handy to the 
seller. He can call and get that rectified but if he is going any 
distance it cannot perhaps be done, particularly if a very fine or 
complicated. Forit is well known that oil will corrode or decay, no 
matter what kind you use. But as I advised before, give it always 
if possible to the person from whom you purchased it or to some 



23 

workman that is trustworthy and honest with his work, as it will 
be to his interest to do it properly or get it done by some work- 
man in whom he can trust. 

If you have dealt with a watch maker or jeweler that you have 
always found to do what is right in his transactions, do not try 
others if you can help it. Should there be anything wrong, tell 
him candidly why you change, and if he is honest and fair dealing, 
he will correct any oversights, errors, or mistakes that either him- 
self or those in his employ may have committed. For I say it 
boldly, there are but few trades or callings in which a dishonest 
person can deceive you as easily as in watches or jewelry. 

If a ship's chronometer has been a long voyage, on the return 
it is all taken to pieces and thoroughly examined. If the pivots are 
worn or even scratched they are repaired and repolished, then it is 
rated again, that is the reason that many vessels have two, one they 
use while the other is being cleaned or rated. If there is strength 
enough in the main spring of either a watch or chronometer, they 
will go for a long time, but they will not rate. What is meant by 
rate is that the variations if any, shall be the same every twenty- 
four hours, whether they lose or gain. When I mentioned the 
slow beat, I alluded to the old fashioned rack levers which at first 
was only 14,000 and after the patent lever 16,400, but which were 
more liable to be affected by external motion. The 18,000 was 
after adopted by all good workmen as being the number that was 
the best according to the principles of horology, 20,000 was tried 
for a short time, but soon abandoned as being too quick. The 
reason why the rack levers and the Chinese or double tick duplex 
had to be abandoned, was because the beats were so slow that 
they could not be regulated accurately when worn There are 
some things which must be admitted by any impartial judge of 
watch work, if he will be truthful and candid in his opinions — that> 
in the first place, all metals are better and more durable by being 
made hard, by hammering, than by rolling or pressing, and also 
that in the English or Swiss watches — good ones, I mean, not in 
the trash — that both nations sent out here some years back. 
But in the medium or good qualities, and in the finely finished 
and complicated hand made, the plates are harder if of brass, and 
the wheels also, the pinions better tempered, etc. I maintain that 
in those made entirely by machinery, the teeth of all the wheels 
will wear out of shape sooner, that the holes, when not jeweled, 
will get too large quicker ; even the taps or threads, for the screws 
will wear out more than in those made by hand work. As for all 
the pivots made of such a uniform size, and pinions of such 



24 

exact height as it is said they are when made by machinery, I 
must candidly say that I have had to alter many, although we 
are told, that they can all be replaced and obtained whenever 
wanted, and they will be all right without any alteration. In some 
the shoulders were too high or too low, or the pivots either too 
small or too large. Some of the pallets or forks had as well as 
the depths to be corrected, and several other alterations to be 
made, which, although they were not such serious faults as would 
prevent the movement from going for some time, but it would be 
without any regularity. Now the wear of the machinery of the 
cutters, polishers, etc., must cause some of the pieces to be 
inperfect after a certain number have been made. 

Therefore, if the examiner or putter up, is not a good skillful 
and experienced workman, some defects will be left uncorrected. 
In such a fine piece of mechanism as a watch, the least deviation 
from the true principle will prove injurious to the quality as a cor- 
rect time-keeper. In all the finely finished American watches they 
must own that hand work has to be used more or less as well as 
for the Swiss ones. 

As for the statement that turning by machinery can be done 
better and more true than by hand, I cannot admit that, either. 
I can show some turning that could not be excelled if equalled by 
any machinery. It may do very well for some grade of goods, but 
I doubt if it could be used for as fine and conical pivots as are 
found in many of the best Swiss and English watches. It is well 
known that the finer the pivots, together with more and finer teeth 
to the pinions and wheels, the less friction there will be. And 
that one that will regulate with a weak spring and a heavy balance 
will be more durable, keep more accurate time, go longer without 
repairing, etc., than one with a strong spring, as is the case with 
clocks used for regulators. I also will not admit that the polishing 
of either the pinions or the pivots can be done better by machinery 
than by hand ; having pivotted and finished so many myself that 
I believe I know something about it, not by theory, but by 
practice. 

I am in favor of machinery, in many cases it is even necessary 
to keep pace with this " progressive age,'' but my opinion is that 
it has done more harm than good for the benefit of society and 
mankind. I certainly believe that applying too much of it to watch 
work has not proved beneficial to the working classes For 
clocks, its use is necessary on account of their cheapness. Neither 
has it improved the quality of the watches, for beauty, durability 
and accuracy, &c, of their running. In how many cases has it 



25 

already been the means of impoverishing the working classes for 
the benefit of a few already rich . 

In Switzerland and in England the best watch manufacturers 
are usually, or have been, practical workmen themselves, having 
learned one or more branches of that art, such as escapement mak- 
ing, finishing, or even beginning the movements, etc., the most 
important branches of that trade. 

They do not usually form companies and have, as some have 
had, men at the head who know very little about the practical part 
of watch-making, except the theory, frequently learned from 
books, therefore are not able to judge if the work is done properly 
or not, or competent to know if the manager or foreman knows 
much more than they do themselves, and then go on, till other 
companies starting, they are compelled to make cheaper goods 
and lower the wages, or pay off the operatives for competition 
with each other ; after a while making them so cheap and so bad, 
that there is no more demand or sale for them and they " go up " 
in a "baloon," and the poor worker has to suffer. Not them. 
l( Oh no " they have taken care of themselves beforehand. 

This has been the case in this country, in only the short time 
that watches have been made so extensively by machinery, and it 
may be the fate of others if they are not careful. But I hope that 
some that are in existence now, will profit by the lesson shown 
them by others, as well as the Swiss will profit by that shown them 
at the Centennial Exhibition of Philadelphia. 

There is one remark I must make to them. It is that they 
have never been particular enough to have their medium grades 
of movements, properly regulated before leaving their hands, and 
Americans knowing that, have had the advantage over them. 

Before their movements are sent from their factories, put in 
the safes or offered for sale, they are properly timed and regulated. 
That is the reason why in taking any one promiscuously from a 
number of others it will often go very accurate, as was the case 
with the one that M. Favre Perret took, and which has caused so 
much mischief. A watch manufacturer in Switzerland as good on 
fine watches — I do not mean on the " trash or patraque " — makes 
it his duty to improve himself all the time, not for cheapness or 
quantity, but for quality and superiority over others. He is from 
his knowledge and experience enabled to see if every part is made 
properly and on the right principle of horology. They are gen- 
erally all friendly toward each other, and try to assist others in 
new discoveries, etc ; in fact they act in unison together, and by 
these means have attained almost perfection in watch work, 



26 

But somehow, I do not know whether it is in the climate, in 
the air, in any imperfection, or by example, or what else, but after 
they get here they change completely, or appear to. They inhale 
the spirit of jealousy, envy, opposition, competition and making 
money fast without laboring hard for it, so common in this coun- 
try. Of course there are many exceptions, but still it is so with 
some, 

I will now state how in many instances watch makers and re- 
pairers are made in America, and I have no doubt in other parts 
of the world ; but I only speak of what I know. A man or boy 
has been working in a watch factory where the movements are all 
made by machinery. He may have been only attending to some 
particular machine used in making some different parts, as balances, 
barrels, wheels, pinions, pallets, forks, regulators, or hair springs, 
etc. He may have been the examiner or putter up, gathering and 
putting the pieces all together, and seeing what he supposes to be 
so very easy as a good, practical workman, in putting up or ex- 
amining a movement, if he finds anything wrong will soon correct 
it without letting the " looker on " know what he is doing or what 
he is doing it for. After the movement is together and wound up, 
he finds that it goes like a " living thing," as Mark Twain says. 
He then thinks, now I can be a watch maker. He selects all 
the different pieces, as he has seen it done, puts them all in their 
places or holes, although sometimes upside down, never mind if 
he breaks a pivot, bends a wheel or cracks a jewel, or twists a hair 
spring or loses any screws, etc.; "there is a few more left of the 
the same kind," and so quickly and easily made by the machine. 
After having screwed the cock down he finds that the balance 
goes and the escapement ticks, he says, ' Now I am all right. I can 
put a movement together." Eemember that we are told that in 
movements made entirely by machinery, every piece is made so 
uniform that any part can be duplicated by sending for them. So 
the reader can see how easy it is to learn to be a watch repairer. 
Oh if I was only a " boy again,'' what a long apprenticeship it 
would have saved me ; but then we had not arrived to this " pro- 
gressive " age yet. After this boy or man leaves the factory he 
opens a store and puts up a sign, " Watch Maker, from such a 
well known factory." 

Again, a man is employed as clerk or salesman in a jewelry 
store, where a watch maker is at work, perhaps a botch at that. 
By continually looking over his shoulders or leaning over him 
while at work and hearing him endeavor to explain some of the 
defects to the customers, of which he knows perhaps as much of 



27 

as I do about building a house, and that is but little. Again, he 
may have been a traveller for some establishment, selling watches 
and jewelry, and knows no more about their construction than 
winding them up, setting them to time, or be able after consider- 
able patience to describe the different kinds. He thinks also that 
he is competent to repair them. There are others who only know 
how to wind and set them to time and make them look very 
bright and shining on the outside, but have, or their fathers before 
them, had money, their idol, and wish to start in some business 
or speculation to make more. I must here observe that this class 
belong to those who have done more injury to the watch and 
jewelry trade than any other. They are not generally a working 
class, except in speculations or head work. This young man, 
wishing to go into a business that is certainly respectable if hon- 
orably and honestly followed, for it looks so nice to see a watch- 
maker at work handling all the different pretty wheels and pin- 
ions, balances, jewels, hair springs, tiny little screws, etc., and 
after holding the plates, brass wheels, etc., in a piece of tissue paper, 
brush a little, make them shine, etc , put them all up together, and 
after winding the spring up it goes like any other mechanical toy. 
He perhaps says, " Now I will not only sell jewelry, and watches, 
etc., but I will also repair them, and ivork at that, it so much nicer 
than being a dirty mechanic, such as carpenter, wheelwright, en- 
gineer, shoemaker. "Why, I can sell them as well as cloth- 
ing, and make more money than by making them myself ; 
besides they are made so cheap by machines — in fact, I can 
not be in any business where hard work is required." As tor 
farming, that is altogether too laborious, and it would spoil his 
complexion or harden his hands too much, particularly if he should 
afterwards want to go into any fancy goods business should he 
not succeed in this, for I must render them justice in saying that 
they are very persevering and good salesmen. I have been a 
farmer, and all my six sons were brought up on a farm, and was I 
young again, would certainly choose that manner of getting my 
living, as it is, if not afraid to work, the most independent, healthy, 
and one of the most honorable of occupations ; for a watch maker 
or repairer has to put up with so many vexations, accidents and 
insults, that he must either be as patient as Job or act the hypo- 
crite, not to get vexed and be often wicked or profane. His work, 
unlike any other, seems never finished, owing to the many dis- 
arrangements and often carelessness of his customers, to which a 
watch is subject. Now " brother craftsmen," good ones I mean, 
am I right or wrong ? But I had almost forgotten my young ap- 



28 r 

prentice, who having now concluded to repair watches, puts on his 
card besides dealer, (i practical watch maker.'' Now what kind of a 
repairer will he make ? We will suppose he employs a workman. 
If he does, it must be one who will work very cheap, and therefore 
cannot be expected to be very expert or skilful at the business. If 
he has not learned it himself or been taught by a good practical 
workman in all the different branches of the watch, how can he 
tell if the work is done right or wrong ? If not properly done, how 
can he show him how it must be, to be done well ? 

This will apply to many other mechanical trades besides 
watches or jewelery. This shows the importance of establishing 
industrial schools in this country as well as in Europe, where every 
branch could be learned, even repairing by hand work as well as 
by machinery, to be taught by competent and practical as well as 
experienced teachers. For I have always and still maintain that a 
good watch repairer must have experience combined with practice. 
A workman that has learned his trade in England, France, Swit- 
zerland, or even Germany, by hand work, can generally find 
employment, but I have my doubts if he could as easily, if he had 
been taught in a factory where the watches are all made by 
machinery. I have had many apply to me for work, arid when 
asked where they had worked or been taught, would answer in 
such a "factory.' 7 "What branch did you learn?" "I made 
balances or pinions or barrels or I am used to putting up, regulat- 
ing, and so forth, from one end to the other." This is the kind of 
repairers we shall have in a few years in this country. 

The aim of the good makers in England and Switzerland has 
been to keep doing their work as well if not better than formerly, 
and in such a manner that their names may be transmitted to 
posterity, as several have been, and others will be in future. They 
endeavor to improve all the time and to impart their knowledge to 
their descendants. 

But now the rising generation care but little about name. 
They care more about making money without work or any manual 
labor. This is the case in more trades than watches and jewelry. 
If you make all watches by machinery alone, where will you in the 
course of a very few years obtain your repairers, the number of 
good ones which is decreasing yearly in this country. It is not by 
writing that you will make them. The number required could not 
be obtained unless they came from where watches are made by 
hand work. It will perhaps be as with clocks, some can be bought 
now so cheap, that when out of order, it is cheaper often to buy a 
new one than have the old one repaired. It will not be by being a 



29 

putter up or adjuster and by knowing how to make pieces in a 
factory that they are made. If he has a new piece to make for a 
watch made on the old principle of watch work or for one of any 
different kind of maker, how will he ever begin to go about it. For 
there always has been and will always be such things as broken 
staffs, pinions, wheels, main or hair springs, etc. Some will per- 
haps say, " He can get it from the factory or of any dealer in 
materials.'' Now I know that but few of the dealers in materials 
keep the pieces finished ready for use for the different kinds of 
watches, and many of the jewelers in country towns do not even 
know their proper name. Another evil will be that by so much 
increasing the quantity, what will you do with them all, for as I said 
a person having a good one, does not wish to part with it, after he 
is satisfied that it will keep time and he can rely on it. It takes 
too long to try the quality of another.- 

What will become of the 40,100 hands or workmen employed 
in Switzerland alone, in watch-making ? Some will say, let them 
follow some other trade or calling. What trade is worth following 
now, and will according to all appearances be better than those in 
existence at the present time ? and where a workingman or woman 
can get even a comfortable living if in steady employment? What 
new trade or branch of industry could be started in such a small 
country as Switzerland? Besides money for stock companies can- 
not be obtained there as easily as in England or America. They 
have not so many banking institutions, neither are they so fond of 
paper money. 

Others may say " go West," " there is plenty of land to 
cultivate." Where is the money to get there and buy the land. 
For if they do not pay for it, but have to pay interest as well as 
raise enough to live* upon, they will have but a sorry time out 
West. They may certainly, if willing to work make a living, but 
not more, as I am afraid many can testify. Although I will admit 
that where there is a large family all willing workers, that they can 
live by farming in a comfortable and independent manner, but 
they must not expect to get rich by it. But as a general rule the 
Swiss, if they can only live in their own country in tolerable com- 
fort, even if they have to work very hard at their trade, love their 
native land and mountains too well to leave them, urdess compelled 
by necessity. Yet, unfortunately, many after they have left it, 
love money better. 

I say boldly that it is not honorable, just, Christian-like or 
acting on the square towards all men, to try to crush their 
manufactories. Competition is necessary in every trade or calling, 



3d 

but it should be done in a fair and honorable manner without 
using any subterfuge to obtain it, but now, many good attributes 
appear to be lost when self-interest is concerned. So is it not 
unjust after having learned what they have of the best part of 
watch-work from the Swiss ? some of it I acknowledge from the 
English, except the going barrel, which was a French invention. 
But the most essential part to them was the machinery, For it 
cannot be denied, that the Swiss were the first to employ it to any 
extent in Geneva, in watch-making. I call it ingratitude, which in 
my belief is one of the worst of sins. For it is certainly a fact 
that the machinery of Ingold (who is still living in Switzerland)* 
was first used in Boston in the year 1852 where the first American 
watches were made. 

It resembles too much of the boy or clerk, who having learned 
what he knows from his father, or from his master, after having 
found the means to go in the same line of business, which he has a 
perfect right to do, if done in a legitimate or fair manner, will 
after he has started, and they are going on in a friendly manner, 
with trade enough for both, says, " I want the whole of it." I am 
going to break up the old shop. I can do it for I have more money 
or credit than him, besides he has so many " old fogie" notions 
and does not keep up with this " progressive age." But it often 
happens that the young attempt to carry too heavy loads and 
break down, which many and experienced, although much older, 
find no difficulty in bearing. This has been the case before this, 
and may be again. 

I feel grieved that this controversy and competition should 

have occurred between these two nations, both republics. The 

Americans should have been satisfied that they had nearly driven 

the English watches out of this market, as they had done the 

Britishers a centuary ago, and leave their little sister republic 

alone. For I say again that had they worked together, which 

they may do yet, and by doing it, the whole watch trade of the 

World could have been divided between them. But now with so 

much machinery, there is no telling how far the competition will 

spread ; I have no doubt to Japan or China. In this country it 

will reach a point that the weakest must give way to the strongest. 

The reader must excuse me for using so often the term 

t t progressive ;" this was said to me when I told certain parties 

that I intended to issue a third edition of " The Watch." I have 

always agreed that machinery was necessary for many things of 

every day use, and in some as great labor saving for a number of 

articles, but I thought that it was not any more required for watch 



31 

work than it was in 1868. I would beg leave to ask in what way 
or manner has this "progression" benefitted the working classes, 
whose interests I am now trying to defend? Has it made either of 
the sexes more moral, more honest, better citizens, better fathers, 
mothers, brothers or sisters than formerly, or healthier and happier 
than before? Are not many of the establishments wherein so 
many boys and girls are employed very often detrimental to the 
morals of the young, as many of the publications issued at the 
present day are, for you all know the old saying, that " one unruly 
sheep will spoil a whole flock," and a diseased one " can poison 
them all f It has been the means of creating more indolence, more 
luxury or outside show, more extravagance, more paper money for 
the benefit of speculators, more gamblers or stock operators, more 
swindlers, more offices and seekers after them, more insurance 
brokers, etc., as well as increasing the number of " drones in the 
hives," for such I call many who get rich through the toils of the 
working classes, often without paying them a fair remunerative 
price for their labor. At least that is my opinion, which may not 
suit all, but of course in all countrys, opinions will differ, and for 
the good of society, it is right that they should ; in many cases 
opposition is necessary. In Switzerland, in England and Germany 
it is customary for the children to stay at home with their parents 
till old enough to be able to judge for themselves what trade or 
calling they will follow,. for it is not every one that has the genius 
or capabilities as well as patience to be a good watch maker or that 
likes it well enough to learn it properly. In such cases it is better 
for them to choose some other calling. If the father should have 
rendered himself celebrated as a superior or honest workman, the 
name is after handed down to the third or fourth generation* 
Whether it is best so or not, I do not pretend to say, but leave it to 
others opinions to decide, but I know that such is the case. My 
grandfather was a clock maker, my father was in the same busi- 
ness. I think that I can claim to be a watch maker and repairer, 
and have two sons watch makers and jewelers. How much longer 
it may extend I am not at present prepared to say. 

I must candidly say however that I do not believe (in certain 
cases excepted) that the American boys " of the period" will as a 
rule make many very skilful and good watch repairers. He would 
not have patience enough to sit still and under control sufficient 
time to be taught properly. They think that a trade can be learned 
in one year or two at the farthest. I will tell him, believe me or 
not as he chooses, that to be a good repairer, even under the 
present system, it will take him four or five years to be able to re- 



32 

pair all kinds of watches. It took me seven years to learn one 
branch of it properly, the making of the repeating parts ; then six 
years more to learn two more, the escapements and the finishing 
and adjusting. As for the repairing, at which I have worked at on 
all kinds of watches since, I am not ashamed to say that I am still 
learning something; I am not so foolish nor so presumptuous as to 
say that I know everything yet, although I have been falsely 
accused of having pretended to, which I declare to be false, but I 
believe I know a little about watch work. 

There are young men of the present time that are not so old 
as some of my grandchildren, who pretend they know more than I 
do, and even tell me so, but as we are in a " progressive age," the 
young men of the present day are not "so slow" as we were years 
ago. They are or they think that they are so much " smarter" 
than the " old fogies.'' One evil in the watch and jewelery trade 
in this country has been that so many innovators or outsiders have 
gone into that business, such as dry goods, hardware, millinery 
fancy, Yankee notions, toy and dry goods stores, etc., who are 
keeping and selling watches and jewelry, not knowing themselves 
in many instances whether they are buying genuine or bogus 
articles. These branches of commerce have got to be nearly as 
common as book, tree, sewing machines, insurance or advertising 
agents, so much of it being done by travellers or agents. If you 
ask one of your old customers why he does not call on you, his 
answer will most likely be, " Why I can buy cheaper at my door 
than by taking the trouble and incurring the expenses of going to 
see you." Now, who often has to pay the expenses of these 
travellers? Sometimes the manufacturer, if not the purchaser. 

At the exhibition of Philadelphia, I find as well as many 
others do also, that the awards or medals were in most cases 
given, not for the superiority of the workmanship or usefulness of 
one article over another, but in many instances for fine displays, 
fine polish, or fine finish of many articles, so that nearly all the 
exhibitors received medals or awards. Now which is the cl best." 
Others have got into controversies about that as well as the watch 
trade ; such as makers of sewing machines, pianofortes, etc. In 
watches nearly, if not all who exhibited, got awards for their 
display, so that they must have been all "best." Any one that 
has ever been to London, Paris or Geneva, must admit that there 
are fine displays of watches, and that they make fine watches there, 
the makers of which knew that the reputation of their goods was 
so well established, that it was useless to make a show or test of 
them, and that they could not be surpassed if equalled for beauty 



33 

accuracy or fine finish. It used to be and many thought also 
that it would be done at Philadelphia, that when two or more 
articles were put on exhibition or competition, if they were of the 
same kind, prizes or premiums were awarded to the " best only " if 
there was many of the kind deserving premiums. Three prizes 
were given, a gold and a silver medal and a diploma, besides 
honorable mention to those deserving it. Now the silver medals 
which I received from the Franklin Fair at Philadelphia, and the 
two from the American and Mechanics fairs in New York, and a 
diploma for patterns of watch cases (the maker got a silver medal), 
these prizes I received for the superiority of my work over the 
other competitors, and not for my fine display, for I had only two 
movements, not even gilt, four watches and three watch cases ; I 
say that I feel prouder of them than if I had received four awards 
from the International Exhibition of 1876, besides they were sent 
to my place of business free of any expense to me. Any one wish- 
ing to see them can do so by calling at my office. I have them yet. 
I should have obtained the gold medal, but I had not made the 
pinions or the wheels myself. I certainly should have put on ex- 
hibition in Philadelphia the repeater which I had made entirely 
myself, all except the wheels and pinions and the case ; I should 
also have shown the box full of pieces all made by hand work for 
repeaters, etc., in different stages or branches of manufacture. I 
believe I should also have obtained an award. It would have con- 
vinced the most sceptical who say that machine turning is better 
and truer than by hand work, but it is not so ; I admit that for 
large pieces, machinery is better and quicker. There is one thing- 
very certain and a proof that " honesty is the best policy'' and will 
last the longest, is that in the names of the English, Swiss and 
American watch manufacturers which I named in the last edition 
of " The Watch," there are some yet living and doing well, and 
will long hereafter have, as many before them have had, the 
respect and praise of the world as upright and conscientious men, 
while those who made money either in the watch or jewelry trade, 
or in any other calling by trickery, cheating or by taking advantage 
of the poverty of the working classes, are forgotten, and if spoken 
of it is with scorn and contempt. I could lengthen this subject so 
as to make a large book instead of a pamphlet, but as my occupa- 
tion is not writing but watch making, and as I only entered into 
this controversy to try to overcome any false impression that had 
been spread about watch work in this country, and at the same 
time renew a few of my advices, not only to watch makers, but to 
the public also ; but I caonot finish without repeating some of my 



34 

advice to watch repairers, and what I said before about the foreign 
and American watches. "Those who do not understand their 
business thoroughly, but only work at random, especially on finely 
finished or good complicated watches, who have picked up a 
smattering of their trade and merely follow it for the purpose of 
money making, who will not receive instructions from more skilfuL 
experienced and practical workmen, for fear of exposing their 
ignorance, to such I would say, leave the business and do not re- 
present faults and defects to exist that have their origin only in 
your imagination, whereby you injure the reputation and credit of 
the honest portion of watch makers and repairers." 

In all that I have said I wish it to be distinctly understood 
that I do not intend to criticise or disparage the American system 
of making watches. I have and do yet applaud them for their 
energy, genius, skill and integrity, in simplifying and making new 
kinds of labor-saving machinery, and for their enterprising spirit. 
I only wished to point out the evils that may follow the adoption 
of too much machinery in watch work, and also to show the work" 
in°" classes of Switzerland that they have a friend in this country 
who is bold enough to endeavor to protect their industry. I still 
maintain that the American watch is a good, substantial and sound 
watch that have and will still replace the common English one in 
this country, but I cannot admit the word " better," neither that 
they are more accurate, more durable and better or finer finished 
than a good Swiss watch of the same price, or that they will drive 
them from this market. They may "stun ,, for a time their 
factories, but not " crush'' them. Still I wish the good ones 
success, as it has done some good for the buyer in reducing the 
price of time-keepers, which in these days of railroad travelling is 
necessary to every man ; but be not too ambitious and attempt to 
become too powerful. Bemember that many great men in olden 
times, for instance Napoleon I., in my time, by attempting too 
much and wishing to conquer the world, fell himself. I have 
written this not for the purpose of money-making — I am too far 
advanced in years to think about that now ; still if I did make 
a little by it, I believe it would be honestly earned by hard study 
and work. I hope it may be the means of apprising some of my 
old friends and customers that I am still in the land of the living, 
and still able to sell them watches, English, Swiss or American, 
and attend to the repairs of their old ones of any description, and 
I repeat that what I cannot now do myself, I will see that it is 
properly done. If I have said anything to hurt the feelings of any, 
I am sorry for it. It was not or is not my intention to injure any 



35 

one, but any one acquainted with me knows that I am naturally 
" blunt and plain speaking." For the short time that I may be 
spared on this to so many a " vale of sorrow, trouble and care," I 
will continue as far as lies in my power to defend the rights of all 
honest and upright working men against the oppression and in. 
justice to which they are often subjected. Whether I am right or 
wrong I leave to others decision. One thing is very certain that a 
worker by hands very seldom gets rich. I will only copy two out of 
the great number of favorable notices and reviews of the Press 
which I received on the first and second editions of this work many 
years ago : 

New York Scientific American, June 16, 1860. 

"Our fame as a clock making nation is world-wide, for where can we travel 
in Africa, Australia, India or China, that a Yankee clock is not found reminding 
the inhabitants of the ' land of steady habits/ 

" With regard to watches, we have also begun to do something creditable, 
still it is well known that the works of nearly all the watches in the United 
States are imported from abroad. The manufacture of cases is carried on ex- 
tensively in a few places, but they are only lids to foreign mechanism, while a 
great number of watches are imported entire. A very useful little book on this 
subject has lately been produced by H. F. Piaget, of this city, a practical watch 
maker of over forty years practical experience. He commenced his efforts of 
fabricating watch work in Switzerland, and he also made watches in London for 
several years and has followed the same craft in America since 1832, so that he 
can speak authoritatively on the subject. The opinion of an experienced and 
skilled artisan as to the character of our American-made watches is of great 
value ; we are told by Mr. Piaget that ' the American watch recommends itself 
for simplicity of construction, and it will be continually improving if the manu- 
facture remains in the hands of persons who will make it of good quality with- 
out regard to the price.' This is timely and appropriate advice ; it is an in- 
junction to strive lor excellence rather than cheapness in such articles. The 
advice is particularly good at this time, because very great efforts have of late 
years been made to produce cheap rather than good watches." 

From the Lady Elgin, Elgin, 111, October, 1872. 

" We desire to acknowledge the receipt of a book on watch making, entitled 
' The Watch,' sent to us by the author, H. F. Piaget, of New York. We have 
submitted it to one of the foremen of the National Elgin Watch Company, who 
has both skill and experience in the art of watch making, and he pronounces 
the work good and sound. It is well written in a plain, straightforward 
manner, and its tone of honest candor is very pleasing. One has but to read it to 
he certain that the author treats only of facts gathered from his own experience, 
and the opinions expressed and the advice offered are evidently the result of 
careful observation and honest conviction." 

These are two specimens of nearly one hundred reviews and 
notices which I received from the newspaper press throughout the 
United States, together with many flattering letters from private 
individuals as well as the recommendations from some of the most 
respectable portion of the trade, for which I again return my 
sincere thanks. I feel more proud of them, than I should have 
been of an award from the Centennial Exhibition. 



36 

I will also reproduce a short essay compiled many years ago, 
which is applicable to these times. 

THE GKEATEST FOKTUNE AN UNSPOTTED CHAKACTER. 

Money is a good thing, especially in these hard times, but there is something 
a thousand fold more valuable— it is a good character ; the consicousness and 
satisfaction of a pure and honorable life. This should be a man's first aim to 
preserve at any cost. In times of commercial distress, while some are proved 
and found wanting, others come forth as tried by fire. Here and there one 
comes out of the furnace far more of a man than before. Amid the wreck of 
his fortune he stands erect, a noble specimen of true manhood. 

We have occasionally witnessed an example of moral intrepidity and 
true courage in such a crisis that deserved all honor. Let it be the aim of 
every business man above all things to keep his purity and name sustained. 
This is the greatest fortune ; it is the finest jewel ; it is a capital which can 
never be taken from him. This is the richest inheritance which he can leave 
to his children. The man or woman, however hard they may have found it to 
struggle through life, and who having raised a prosperous family with habits for 
industry, the dread of doing evil and in the fear of God, can, in their declining 
days say, " I never intentionally deceived or wronged any one," posesses the 
greatest riches in the world, a good conscience, and are sure of being rewarded, 
if not at present but hereafter, for remember that the "all-seeing eye" is never 
closed, stopped, broken or worn out, but is looking down on all our actions, 
while our watches (those that are in good order) are kept wound up and going, 
but they cannot do it eternally, while a good character and name will last to the 
end of time." 

I will now conclude with what I said in my first edition of 
1860. A life like mine devoted to measuring the flight of time 
admonishes me that there is a time for all things, a time to begin 
and a time to end. I therefore conclude in the earnest hope that 
those who have attentively read my remarks will not feel offended 
or consider it time misspent, but feel that they have thereby added 
to their stock of useful knowledge a little information ; if I have 
accomplished this I shall not repent that I have again for the third 
time exchanged the work bench for the writing desk, and I shall 
return to the work bench to continue, as I have for so many years 
heretofore been the public's most faithful servant, to make, ex_ 
amine, or repair its watches; and when run down, hope to be wound 
up by my Maker and set eternally going in the life to come. And 
now my task being ended I again cast it on the waters, saying : 

" Go thy ways, 
And if, as I believe, the vein be still good, 
The world will again find thee after many days." 

THE AUTHOR 



I would respectfully inform the public that this work is copy- 
righted, and that if any journals, newspapers, etc., wish to make 
extracts, that they will please to give credit where copied from. 



SWITZERLAND TO AMERICA GREETING. 



The Centennial Judges having awarded to the Messrs. BOREL & COURVOISIER two prizes 
at the late Centennial Exhibition for their production, one For extreme accuracy in adjustment, and 
regularity in performance, and the other for display. They are now offering their Watches at a 
great reduction from former prices, having introduced improved machinery, whereby the produc- 
tion is increased, and the cost of manufacture greatly reduced, and the quality and durability 
improved, insuring a first-class NICKEL MOVEMENT WATCH within the reach of all. These 
Watches so favorably known for the past 18 years, are made of the best material, and have all the 
modern improvements in watch making, having Chronometer Balances, Breguet Hair 
Springs, Tempered, Hardened and Isochrqnised for R. R. Travel, Fine Ruby Jeweled, 
and are warranted to perform with the regularity and accuracy of a Chronometer. These Watches 
-" are for sale by all our local agents through the country, and parties desiring a good and durable 
time-keeper, are requested to examine them before purchasing those of other manufacturers or 
home productions. 

QUINCHE & KRUG-LER, 
SALESROOM: 17 Maiden Lane, N.TP. up stairs. 

L. H, KELLER. EDWARD HUNZIKER. F. J. BOESSE. 

jj. H. KELLER & CO., 

Successors to G. A. HUGUENIN, 

IMPOBTEKS 'OF 

FINE WATCH AND FRENCH CLOCK MATERIALS, 

SWISS, ENGLISH, FRENCH AND GERMAN 

FILES, TOOLS, <fcc. 

-FOR WATCHMAKER V WATCH CASE MAKERS, JE vELERS, SILVER- 
SMITHS, ENGRAVERS. CtiASERS, DIE SINKERS, MACHINISTS, &o- 

GENERAL AGENTS FOR THE PHILADELPHIA WATCH COMPANY. 

y No. 64 JNASSAU STREET, 

Near Maiden Lane. NEW YORK* 



C. J. DERAISMF.S. H. A. DERAISMES. 

X>E2 O. AXiSJUTIESS BRO TI3C E3 RS, 

Successors to LUTZ BROTHERS. 
MANUFACTURERS AND IMPORTERS OF THE 
A; HUGUENIN NARDIN, v L. A. LUTZ, 

LUTZ BROTHERS, PERRET & CO. 

WAVQBiS 411 W41iS MOYIililf S 

p. o. box 2639, jst&w Y®mm. 

ORDERS SOLICITED FOR WATCHES. WITH SPECIAL NAMES. 
FACTORY: RUE DES ENSERS, LOCLE, SWITZERLAND 

FRANCIS DUBOIS & CO., 

IMPORTERS of WATCHES 

36 MAIDEN LANE, NEW YORK. 

; — 

The Beguelin Houriet Watches and Movements, long- favorably 

known to the trade, are our special importation. 
A full line of these g-oods, both Stem and Key Winders, constantly 
on hand. 



HENEYF, PIAGET, 
Watch Manufacturer, Examiner & Repairer, 

No. 36 MAIDEN LANE, NEW YORK. 

Stem and Key Winding- Watches of any description, from the 
best makers of England, Switzerland and America, procured to 
order if not on hand. 

BEGUELIN HOURIET, 

ELGIN, SPRINGFIELD, ILL, 

AND PHILADELPHIA MOVEMENTS 

a specialty, or cased to order in Gold or Silver. Repairs of fine or complicated 
watches attended to with accuracy. All movements, watches or repairs warranted 
as represented. 

B i I " i 1 

JLOU1S «£. JPIJIGET, 

Watchmaker ai\d Jeweler > 

I*o. 173 MAIN STREET, PATERSON, N. J. 

Fine Watches, Diamonds, 

Jewelry Sterling- Silver 

and Plated Ware, 

French and American Clocks, 

Musical Boxes, etc. 

American watches : E. Howard & Co . Elgin, Springfield and Waltham. 
Gold Chains for Gents — Ladies' Leontine, Matinee, Opera- and Royal Opera— all 
styles and prices. A full assortment of Roll Plated Goods. Fine and complicated 
watches repaired and satisfaction given. Clocks, Jewelry, etc., repaired. 

ESTABLISHED 1857. 



Waterbury Clock Company, 

M. BAILEY, Treasurer, 

CLOCK MANUFACTURERS, 

No. 4 Cortlandt Street, New York. 

No. 197 State Street, Chicago. 

FACTOEIES AT WATERBURY, CONN. 






STEBLI1TG- 



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